‘He viewed automobiles as a nuisance, both on the streets and in conversation.’--Hernan Diaz, in his book, TRUST 

It’s hard to believe that twenty-six years have passed since our whirlwind European journey in October of 1999. Looking back at my diary entries from that week, I’m struck by how vivid the memories remain—shopping for Dolce & Gabbana in Milan, watching Eyes Wide Shut dubbed in Spanish, savoring tapas under a moonlit ceiling, and wandering through some of Europe’s most beautiful streets and plazas. This trip was a collision of elegance, laughter, and small moments of wonder—woven together like threads in a rich tapestry. 

October 19, 1999, A Day of Fashion and Friendship 

With a pesky car problem finally resolved, we set off from our hotel by 9:30 a.m. Alan had quickly befriended the doormen, ensuring our car stayed safely guarded out front. We strolled the streets of Milan, stopping for cappuccinos, croissants, and a quick bite before diving into the day. 

The highlight was our visit to La Sinagente, a discount outlet store where temptation lurked in every aisle. Alan scored a beautiful brown jacket while I indulged in Dolce & Gabbana pants, a pair of chic brown Italian designer trousers, and a navy-blue velvet-like shirt by EXTE. Virginia and Gloria didn’t find much beyond window-shopping, but the thrill was in the hunt. 

Afterward, we wandered into a nearby hair salon where mom (Virginia) had her hair done, and Alan and I couldn’t resist joining in for trims. The owner, Max—a vibrant, talkative man—mentioned a local restaurant called Busy Bee, promising it would be unlike anything we’d ever seen. 

Later, we lunched atop La Rinascente, the Italian department store, gazing out over the majestic Duomo. The day ended in an enchanting blur of fountains, live piano music, and finally, dinner at Busy Bee. 

The restaurant was magical: painted murals of palm trees, glowing blue water, and a ceiling bathed in moonlight. A live musician sang in Italian, and the food was just as delightful. We dined with the friends we’d met earlier, savoring the warmth of connection in a city far from home. 

October 20, 1999, A Journey to Madrid 

The next morning, we said goodbye to Milan and embarked on our journey to Madrid. Along the way, a quick layover in Brussels gave us a chance to explore duty-free shops where Gloria stumbled upon Gianfranco Ferré perfume, a scent she had long coveted since 1990. 

Arriving in Madrid, we checked into the Palace Hotel, a place of historic grandeur. Built in 1912 under the vision of King Alfonso XIII, the hotel has long been a symbol of Spanish luxury and elegance. Its grand lobby, lined with marble columns and glowing chandeliers, felt like stepping back into a more opulent era. The rooms exuded timeless charm, blending classic architecture with modern comforts. 

By evening, we dressed quickly and strolled through the city for a traditional Spanish paella dinner, navigating with a local magazine article as our guide. Walking back to the hotel, we passed a Planet Hollywood, where we learned that Bruce Willis was staying just across the street—a touch of Hollywood glamour in the heart of Spain. 

October 21, 1999, Museums and Moonlit Tapas 

We awoke to the soft patter of rain and set out for the Thyssen Museum, immersing ourselves in the brilliance of European masters. Afterward, we strolled past the Banco de España, our umbrellas twirling against the wind, and began to plot the evening’s adventures. 

That night, the four of us gathered in the Grand Ballroom for cocktails and tapas, basking in the Palace Hotel’s majestic ambiance. Gloria ordered a Grand Palace cocktail, a sweet concoction tinged with blue curaçao, while my mom sipped a margarita. It was one of those evenings where the glow of chandeliers seemed to slow time itself. 

October 22, 1999, Eyes Wide Shut 

Our morning began with a sumptuous breakfast buffet, after which we set out to explore Madrid. Shopping took us to Purificación García, where Alan helped me select a sleek black leather jacket that felt effortlessly chic. From there, we explored the Palm Tree Train Station, marveled at its architecture, and even stopped at McDonald’s—a quirky little slice of America amidst the grandeur of Spain. 

But the highlight of the day came later: a Spanish-language screening of Stanley Kubrick’s final masterpiece, Eyes Wide Shut. Seeing Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman dubbed in Spanish was surreal. The dubbing was so precise that it truly seemed like they were speaking the language. 

"No dream is ever just a dream." – Bill Harford, played by Tom Cruise 
"If you men only knew." – Alice Harford, played by Nicole Kidman 

The film, steeped in erotic mystery and psychological tension, follows a Manhattan doctor whose jealousy and curiosity lead him deep into a secret world of desire and danger. It was thrilling, haunting, and deeply thought-provoking—perfectly suited for a rainy Madrid evening. 

Unfortunately, this was also the day I noticed a nagging irritation on my lower left leg. Days earlier, I had scraped it while exploring the Blue Grotto, and in a moment of carefree fun, splashed its brilliant turquoise water onto the wound. Now, as we walked through Madrid’s bustling streets, a rash was beginning to form—a small but worrisome reminder of our travels.  I had immediate plans to see my UCLA doctor once I returned to L.A.

October 23, 1999, Last Day in Madrid 

Our final day in Madrid unfolded leisurely. Alan suggested we explore the city by metro, each of us picking a random stop: 

I chose the Garcia Nolebjas, a nod to my grandmother Mathilde’s maiden name. 

Mom (Virginia) picked Lucero, drawn to it as it is her maiden name. 

Alan selected Chueca, known for its vibrant, colorful energy. 

Gloria picked Buenos Aires, intrigued by its international flair. 

Lunch was a cozy affair, complete with garbanzo bean soup and laughter echoing around the table. Despite the drizzle and the growing irritation on my leg, I felt at peace. That evening, we capped our trip with tapas and wine before beginning the long journey home. 

Reflections 

As we boarded our flight back to Los Angeles, I couldn’t help but reflect on how travel compresses time. In just a few days, we’d crossed countries, shared meals under moonlit ceilings, discovered hidden shops, and even brushed against Hollywood fame. Madrid’s Palace Hotel still lingers in my memory—a beacon of timeless grandeur, a reminder that beauty and history can coexist in perfect harmony. 

"Travel is the only thing you buy that makes you richer." 

This week was a testament to that truth. And though my leg bore a small reminder of the Blue Grotto’s waters, my heart carried the vibrant pulse of Milan and Madrid—a rhythm that continues to echo through the years.  Besides my forthcoming doctor appointment, I needed a new haircut by Aeesha.  I’m on to the next best thing.  

‘For in his experience, a sigh was something one expressed when one finds that one is doing something that he has no inclination to do.’--Amor Towles in his short story, A WHIMSY OF THE WORLD