Xinomavro: The Wines of Naoussa, Amyndeo, and Goumenissa View over Naoussa and Mount Vermio from the dominant Karydas winery—located in the kind of eudaimonic place where three thousand years ago one would have built a temple.

Naoussa is a hill town to the west of Thessaloniki, overlooked by Mount Vermio (2050m, high enough for three ski resorts) and overlooking the plain of central Macedonia. In myth, the area is the birthplace of Semele, the mother, by Zeus, of Dionysus. The modern town is very near to the Nymphaeum of Mieza, a numinous spot where Aristotle taught the future Alexander the Great and comrades such as Ptolemy and Hephaistion. And it is a short drive from Vergina, where one can descend into the rich tomb of Alexander’s father, Philip II of Macedon.

Wine paraphernalia found in the tomb of Philip II of Macedon.

Naoussa is the spiritual home of the most noble black variety of Greece, the difficult and demanding Xinomavro (or Xynomavro, ‘Sour black’). There are three other PDOs based on Xinomavro: Amyndeo, on a plateau on the other side of Mount Vermio; Goumenissa, an hour to the north-east in the foothills of Mount Paiko; and Rapsani, two hours to the south in the foothills of Mount Olympus (although there are currently only two producers in Rapsani). In Goumenissa, the blend must include at least 20% Negoska. In Rapsani, the blend consists of equal parts of Xinomavro, Stavroto, and Krassato. The cooler climate in higher up Amyndeo, where Xinomavro can struggle to ripen, favours the production of rosés, sparkling wine, and international varieties.

The Barba Yiannis vineyard in Amyndeo.

In 1831, the French scholar and diplomat Esprit Marie Cousinery wrote that, ‘The wine of Naoussa is to Macedonia what Burgundy wine is to France. I am in a position to say that the wine of Naoussa is the best in the Ottoman Empire.’ In the years following the Greco-Turkish War (1919-1922) and the forced exchange of populations, phylloxera ravaged the vineyards of Naoussa, leading to peach trees and mixed farming. It is only in the last two decades that Naoussa has recovered something of its former glory, owing, in part, to the efforts of producer Apostolos Thymiopoulos.

Tasting with Apostolos Thymiopoulos.

Today, there are some 500ha of Xinomavro in Naoussa, trained and pruned en Cordon de Royat or gobelet. Vineyards range in altitude from 150 to 400m, along the southeastern slopes of Mount Vermio (Naoussa looks a lot higher up than it is). The soils are varied, and include areas of limestone, clay, loam, and sand. There are twelve subregions with names such as Ramnista, Paliokalias, and Fyteia, although the differences between producers are greater than those between subregions. Summers are hot and dry, but autumns can be unreliable, leading to considerable vintage variation. Sheltered, sloping, and south-facing slopes are favoured to protect against spring frosts and maximise sun exposure. As elsewhere, the challenge is to minimise vigour and yields and balance phenolic and sugar ripeness. Yields are capped at 70hl/ha, but ambitious producers might aim for half of that.

In the vineyards at Dalamára, in the subregion of Gastra.

Like the light-coloured Barolo, with which it is often compared, Naoussa is structured and savoury with high acidity and tannins, although, as with Barolo, there is a modern style that requires less time in cask and bottle. To me, Naoussa seems more herbal and ‘churchy’ than Barolo or Etna, with a signature note of tomato leaf. Like Barolo, Naoussa benefits immensely from ageing, developing, after ten years, notes of roses, olives, dust, old books, frankincense, Parma ham, truffles, and chocolate. For that kind of spine-tingling wine, it is very cheap.

Tasting a delightful 2009 Karydas. The current vintage is only 13 euros ex-cellar.

There are some 26 producers in Naoussa. Favourites include Dalamara, Diamantakos, Foundi (pay the small premium for the single vineyard Foundi Estate), Karydas, Kir Yianni, and Thymiopoulos, who also makes wine in Rapsani. The Thymiopoulos Earth and Sky and Kir Yianni Ramnista are benchmark blends, and not far off, and better rounded than, pricier single vineyard expressions. In the new generation of winemakers, look out for Konstantinos Kokkinos and Socràtes Maras. It is difficult to generalise about vintages. For instance, while 2007 is upheld as a great vintage, I preferred the fresher 2009 and 2011. More recently, 2024 is hot, while 2025 is classic and very promising.

Tasting with Konstantinos Kokkinos at Whole Bunches wine bar in Naoussa.

For Goumenissa, you can go with Chatzivaritis, and for Amyndeo, with Alpha Estate and Karanika. Alpha Estate is noted, among others, for its Barba Yiannis made from centenarian ungrafted Xinomavro in a single limestone vineyard. Karanika specialises in traditional method Xinomavro. Their Extra Cuvée de Réserve, made from ungrafted old vines and released after seven years on the lees, is distinguished from Champagne by notes of roses, tea, and peaches.

Tasting older vintages at Chatzivaritis in Goumenissa.

Several Naoussa wineries have a sideline distilling tsipouro. Both ouzo and tsipouro are anise-flavoured spirits, but tsipouro is made from pomace, and ouzo from neutral alcohol. Tsipouro can be without anise; ouzo can include other botanicals. But the main difference is that tsipouro is more grapey. Cognac, compared to tsipouro, is aged in oak.

Although close to Thessaloniki airport, Naoussa is off the tourist trail, making it a cheap and authentic destination. If you go, sleep at Palea Poli, eat at Spondi, and drink at Whole Bunches.

Neel Burton is author of The Concise Guide to Wine and Blind Tasting.

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