Dresden is the capital of Saxony, but it is not its largest city. That distinction belongs to Leipzig, which is just a short train-ride away. Though not the most beautiful nor the most historic city in Germany—not even close—it has long been on my list, if only for its connection to one of the great figures of history: Johann Sebastian Bach.

Only modestly well-known during his lifetime, Bach has come to be regarded as equalled only by Beethoven and Mozart in the history of European classical ...