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"There is no dill in sight, but there is parsley, which will do. I need a good chicken. A good chicken which has had a long and active life. It needs to be old and wiry, the energy of its movement, and years of its age transferred into flavor. This type of bird what makes the borsch sing."

"I grew up among incredible cooks, but in Ukraine you don't (or at least we didn't) cook at your mother's side. The adults were busy, you were not to get in the way, but I must have absorbed a lot of it by osmosis"