One has to wonder how humans as a species survived at all because the human mind seems to be constructed in a way that allowed at one point in time for a human to look at those waves for the first time and think that it'd be fun to take a piece of wood and ride those monsters. Which is nuts. I watched several hours of surfing videos on YT. Cray cray!
https://youtu.be/krsqU2HFJkw?t=58 (Put volumn down!)
But dayum!