Heather Ross's Blog

My good friend Annabel Wrigley created this wonderful tutorial for Trixie and Thomas. Here are some of here tips and tricks…

Lightning Bugs was one of the most personally important collections that I have designed, partly because it was my fist ever collection for home-sewists and quilters, and partly because it marked a major transition creatively and personally, and the beginning of a new an happy chapter in my life. I remember very clearly (and very nervously) showing it to Amy Butler, who I was in awe of, at my very first quilt show, and her words, which were " This is going to make people really happy". That seemed like the best news I'd ever gotten.

It was well received, but short lived. I have watched for 13 years (!) as it's become more collectible, it's prices in the re-sale market making it virtually impossible to buy, feeling as frustrated as anyone that it wasn't more available to anyone who wanted it for their own personal use. I sold off my own stash (or so I thought) long ago, never at much more of it's original price. When I learned that there were still a few bolts kicking around, I knew immediately that I wanted to sell it in small quantities directly to the same home sewists and quilters that have shown me so much support, at a price that everyone could afford.

I could not have imagined the response that we have gotten since our announcement last week. I am both touched and shocked by the demand for these fabrics. After a lot of consideration, I've decided to print more of it to meet this anticipated demand. I have the assurance of the mill that they will match the prints and the original fabric ( a brushed poplin) exactly. I'm offering it on a pre-sale basis only, and only printing a limited amount. We expect it to sell out. It's available only from me, not from Windham Fabrics or in retail stores. I won't be able to sell it to retailers or manufacturers. Customers are limited to two pre-packs each.

So, to the questions regarding wether or not this is a re-print, I have to say both "yes" and "no". 

Some of you have asked because you loved the original substrate, which was the soft, sanded poplin that I helped develop 14 years ago with Free Spirit Fabrics. This is the same fabric, the same art (mine), and the same colors. The price will be pretty close to the original too, at about $14 a yard. If you love this collection for what it is, because you love gnomes or had a bicycle with a banana seat or remember riding in your father's VW bus as a kid, I think  (I hope!) it will make you really happy, which is, ultimately, what I have always strived for as an artist. 

But for anyone wondering if this fabric will have the same re-sale value than the original yardage, I'm not sure what to tell you. I don't set (or charge) those prices. I think maybe time will tell. BUT, maybe this sale isn't for you. 

And yes, if all goes as planned, I'll offer the other half of this collection at some point down the road. Its hard to say now when or where. And yes, I'm still happily designing fabric for Windham, more than ever actually, but this collection is all me.

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The best way to get really good at drawing is to do a little bit of it every single day. Pick a few small, simple, familiar objects and you're on your way... Creativebug just launched 10 Easy Things To Draw with Heather Ross today! Begin drawing and learn more here.

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What seems like a million years ago, before I was an artist or a mother or a wife, I lived in a tiny cabin just north of the town of Mendocino, just steps from the cold, wild, and rough Pacific Ocean.

I worked seasonally, as a naturalist for the State Parks during the school year and at a horsebarn in the summer and the fall. I lead guided rides along a ten mile stretch of unpopulated beach, sometimes under a full moon.

It seems, sometimes, to have all been a dream.

Ten years later I designed a fabric collection inspired by this time in my life. Like every collection, and like my time in North California, it came and went too quickly.

Thankfully, and largely due to the requests of their customers, Windham Fabrics has generously offered a re-issue of MENDOCINO for a new generation of sewists, mermaid lovers, and sea horse cowgirls, including the biggest mermaid fan I know: my daughter Bee.

Mendocino is offered on quilting cotton, and includes six original prints.

Colors have been slightly tweaked and updated, many in answer to the requests of our sewists and retailers.

THANK YOU to our retailers, sewists, and friends, who have supported and collected this collection for a decade. It is one that is very close to my heart.

View the lookbook here!

After seeing Anna Joyce's Vintage Drying Rack on Instagram, Heather and I fell in love. We knew we had to have one! So after searching for countless hours, with no success, we decided to just make one. So with the help of my boyfriend, James, we headed over to our local Lowe's and created our own Quilt Rack.

Materials (available at your local Lowe's or Home Depot):

The finished dimensions of this piece is: 6' Tall x 4' Wide x 1 1/2" Deep (when flat)

4 Pieces of 1"x3"x6' Red Oak*5 Pieces of 1"x3"x8' Red Oak*A Small Test Piece of Red Oak2 - 2 1/2" Cabinet Hinges**Box of 1 1/4" Brass ScrewsA couple 3/4" Brass Screws4 Brass Cup Hooks2 - 36" Brass Chain (smaller gauge)Wood GlueRustoleum Kona Wood StainWipe on PolyGold/Brass Spray PaintStaining PadTack ClothFine Sandpaper

*1" x 3" lumber is ACTUALLY 3/4" x 2 1/2" in size. Lumber has a nominal size (1"x3") and an actual size (3/4"x2 1/2"). So make sure you know the real dimensions of the lumber before you buy hardware.

**There were no Brass Hinges available when we went to Lowe's. So we bought 2 steel hinges and spray painted them to match the rest of the brass hardware.

Tools:DrillDrill BitsScrewdriving Bits (make sure you have the bit that matches the head of the screw you use)Circular SawTable and/or Saw HorsesSanding Block (a hard piece of wood that you wrap sand paper around)How To:

 

 

 

1. Go buy materials. Make sure that the lumber will fit in the car. We were cutting it very close.

 

 

 

 

 

2. Test the stain on the extra test piece and spray paint the hinges with the gold/brass spray paint.

 

 

3. Cut Lumber to appropriate sizes. Remember, measure twice and cut once.  Here is a cut list:

4 - 6' Pieces (Verticals)10 - 4' Pieces (Horizontals)

 

4. Pre-drill holes for screws. You want to drill with a bit smaller than the screw. Pre-drilling prevents the wood from splitting. James chose a diagonal pattern for the screws, but they could be straight across.

5. Mark 0", 14", 28", 42", 56" down from the top of the 4 - 6' pieces (see diagram below). These marks will be where you place the top of the horizontal 4' pieces. There will be 5 horizontal and 2 vertical piece per side. Apply a little wood glue* and screw in the 4 brass screws, 4 on each horizontal piece, 2 on each side, to each of the 10 horizontal pieces.

*glue acts as a lubricant. So always hold the lumber in place.

Wipe away excess glue with a paper towel.

The image above shows how the 2 pieces look like when put together.

6. Sand edges until smooth and sand off any excess glue.

7.  Use a tack cloth to remove dirt and dust. This is important. If you do not do this then the stain will not be smooth.

8. With the staining pad, stain the wood. You want to work from the top down, getting both sides as you go. Wipe away any drips immediately.

9. Attach the 2 hinges onto the inside top of the rack. Use 1 1/4" screws where the 2 pieces of wood overlap and 3/4" screws where there is just the vertical piece.

 

 

10. Pre-drill 4 holes, one on each of the 3/4" side of the vertical pieces for the cup hooks. screw in the cup hooks by hand.

11. Place the brass chain through the cup hooks and voila! The Quilt Rack is finished!

(This project was created and made by James Kolpin and Megan Garner)

My wardrobe is a simple one, especially for a New Yorker. I work for myself, and none of my clients expect me to show up for meetings in anything more formal than pants that aren’t jeans. I spend my summers and weekends barefoot in a dusty old house that, given the chance, will eat anything too delicate for its breakfast. Still, I have always been drawn to the idea of couture and custom made clothing. The fascination is, I think, less about fancy and more about feel. My grandmother, a debutante in her day, wore clothing that was made for her throughout much of her life, and even though I’m taller than she was we had the same proportions and I could get away with wearing a few of her old formal gowns to proms and dances when I was young. I still wear her dirndl on New Years Eve, though these days it’s laces are so tight that when I wear it my hearing and sight are affected slightly. Even with the difference in our height, though, my grandmother’s dresses have always fit me in a way that other clothing didn’t. We both have longer than standard torsos, and in many Ready To Wear dresses and blouses I find myself hunching over to make up for their lack of length, as though I can bring a waistline down by scrunching myself up. More often than not I spend an evening in discomfort, twisting and turning my body unconsciously. Of course I’d sewn for myself and learned to adjust simple things, such as extending a bodice’s length, but in her dresses I always stood tall, barely aware of what I wore because it followed the lines of my body in way that did not constrict or discomfort, and I felt flattered, rather than awkward, and much more myself. This is the thing about wearing clothing that really fits you: It makes you feel good.

I have met other women who lived in a time when customized clothing was the norm for some. One of my most favorite women in the world, the one who has given me such sage advice as “there are only two things a woman will never regret in her life. A swim, and a baby.” and “there are really a few things a woman really needs in life. A man who adores her and a terrific pair of ***s.”, also told me this about custom made clothing: “There is nothing that feels better than wearing a dress that has been made for your body without anything on underneath”. Those first two statements I can attest to. Ive tested them, and found them to be truer than stone. As for the last, until this week I could not have said. Apart from the dirndl, which does not require a bra thanks to it’s suffocating structure, I had never tested that one.

Fifteen years ago, when I was still living in California and traveling to New York regularly for work, I wandered into Barney’s and found a hand embellished corset style tank from Natalie Chanin’s original label, Project Alabama. Even though it’s five figure price tag represented about four months rent, and I couldn’t have bought it as much as I admired and appreciated the story behind that number, I just needed to see what it felt like on my body. It felt good. Really, really good. I felt my back straighten and my shoulder blades relax almost immediately. Even though it hadn’t been made for me exactly, Nathalie’s method of hand-embellishment gave a perfect weight to the soft, stretchy fabrics that she works with, and she clearly had a terrific instinct for what works on women's bodies. It felt like a beautiful second skin that, I could see in the mirror, smoothed things out nicely.  I didn’t buy that piece, but I’ll admit that I went back a few years later armed with a fresh credit card and every intention of buying something from her line. Sadly, I walked out empty handed again. The label had disappeared, because Natalie’s business had gone through some changes, if not a complete metamorphosis.

It was maybe another eight years after that, I was living in New York City and had just signed my first book deal with Abrams, where I would be working for the first time with Melanie Falick that I came across Natalie’s work again. I walked into Melanie’s office in Chelsea and there it was:  a print out of a sewing book by Natalie Chanin. No longer selling finished garments to stores like Barneys, she was fast becoming a pioneer in the slow fashion movement, and a true force of nature in the world of handmade. That book led to this book review, to meeting Natalie herself, and to becoming an admirer of her company and her character in addition to her immeasurable talents. I had even accepted an invitation to come to one of her workshops, where a couture dress would be designed just for me, but something came up (a tenuous pregnancy, actually), and I had to cancel, and I was certain that my chances of ever owning one of Natalie’s couture pieces seemed as though they would never materialize.

Then, a few months ago, Natalie’s studio contacted me to say that they would like to make a dress for me. FOR ME. That I, along with some other handmakers and artists, were being invited to submit specifications for their very own dresses, pulled from the pages of Natalie’s new book, Alabama Studio Sewing Patterns, which is really a thorough guide to making customized garments based on Natalie’s designs. And, in a few short weeks, I would receive a dress in the post. A Couture. Customized. Handmade. Natalie Chanin. Dress. There were a lot of decisions to be made. We went with a mermaid theme, of course, and worked together to plan a long shaped dress with scallops, in dark ocean blues.  And then I waited. And when the box came, delivered to me by my husband, I tore it open with a kitchen knife and took off all (yes, all.) of my clothes in the middle of my living room, even though my friend Maggie was sitting right there on my sofa and there had not been time for an any explanation, and pulled the heavy, stretchy, beautifully embellished dress over my head. It’s hem dropped perfectly to the floor, and I could feel it instantly and simultaneously covering every part of my body with a perfectly equal, comforting pressure. I felt my back straighten and my shoulders relax. It seemed, somehow, to make me smile without deciding to.  Before I could even look in a mirror I decided that I would be living in this dress for the next six months, dust and summer be damned. I’m sure I don’t have to tell you that it It felt good. It felt really, really good. And, like everything I own that has been made by hand for me, it feels like it belongs in my life.

Photo By Annabel Wrigley

All of Natalie’s books are incredible, but this one is one that every handmaker should own. It’s a thorough and insightful guide to making clothing that fits and flatters in a way that few garments you will ever own will. It includes Natalie’s actual patterns (including the skirt and bodice styles that once commanded thousands of dollars at places like Barney’s) and detailed instructions on altering, plus pages and pages of instructions - with templates - on the hand embellishment techniques that she is known and admired for. Kits, fabrics and other notions can be purchased on Natalie’s website. The pieces in this book are staples, tee shirts and skirts, dresses and wraps, but more than one maker has used them to make their own wedding dress, or used Natalie’s beading designs to create one of a kind formal pieces, all of it made to last and to be worn for a lifetime.

Photo By Annabel Wrigley

Hello!

This month has been so full of launches and new things that it's been a bit hard to keep it all straight, but it does add to the general headiness of it finally being spring here in New York City. We are absolutely knee deep in the launch of TigerLily, my new line for Windham, and are so looking forward to hearing what everyone thinks. Really. I've also got two new sets of online classes at Creative Bug, and a new fish named Swimmy Swimmy Firetruck. I know. Spring has totally sprung.

Weather-wise The Catskills are another story entirely. Bee and I spent last week watching the big patches of snow around our house upstate slowly recede, but there was still enough of it to inspire a few snow angels and even more cups of hot cocoa. This late snow does have me wondering about our precious ramp season, but since they will eventually spring up in many American forests (and almost every greenmarket these days), I've included a very spring-y recipe for them below. This isn't mine, not really, but rather my riff (with ramps partly subsituted for scallions) on David Chang's riff on NY Noodletown's scallion noodles. Best eaten during a rainstorm at your kitchen table at 3 am with the door open and a cold IPA in your hand, if you ask me.

-Heather

TigerLily: Heather Ross for Windham Fabrics

Here's a very thorough look at my new fabric collection, TigerLily. Due in stores in late summer, the line includes 23 designs (7 unique prints in all) on quilting cotton and 5 designs on a lovely lightweight cotton lawn. If you are wondering about the name, it’s for the flower that inspired the predominant color story in this collection, an exotic orange and almost-black dappled lily that grew in a quiet corner of our yard on West Hill in Vermont. It seemed to me never to completely fit in, so I always tried to love it especially hard. Also here, finally, is a print that I have tried and failed many times to bring to life, about children and trees, and a print about barn cats and their babies inspired by the last chapter in my memoir (that word never gets less pretentious to write or say, does it?), How To Catch a Frog.

TigerLily Collectors Packs, Limited Edition, Available by Reservation Only

Collectors Packs include 1/2 yard cuts of each of the 23 prints on quilting cotton, which will be more than enough to make up our TigerLily Corners Quilt (pattern included) and this set of two (because we love paired, matching prints, especially in kids rooms!) signed 11 by 14 prints on heavy fine art paper.

We'll only be making these Collectors Packs for those who reserve them, ans will be taking a limited number of orders. Reserve yours here.

Quilt Market

I’ll be at Quilt Market in Minneapolis in May with Windham Fabrics. Come by to see the fabrics in person if you are attending, or to pick up an autographed book, or just to say hello.

New Online Classes at Creative Bug

I’ve just launched a new series of online classes over at Creativebug. This is a three part series about drawing and Illustration, and for those of you who have been following the Fabric Design series you’ll see that a lot of the content relates to that as well. You can watch a trailer for the final class, which premiers next Tuesday, here.

Creativebug is also hosting a very fun little contest,

Creative Bug is also hosting a very fun little contest, In celebration of the series, they is running an Instagram contest for the next 2 weeks.

Here’s how it works: Each week, share a picture of your drawing progress on Instagram. Maybe it’s a work in progress, maybe it’s a finished masterpiece, maybe it’s all your drawing tools organized perfectly in a drawer. Because that counts too. Include#creativebug and #cbugsketchbook in the description. Creativebug will announce a new winner each Tuesday on their Instagram feed and their blog post.

Week 2’s winner:
Prize: $100 Michael’s gift card

Week 3’s winner:
Prize: $100 Michael’s gift card

We can’t wait to see what you’re drawing! And if your kids are taking the class along with you, we’d love to see their work as well.

Ramp Season!

Ramps, which are sort of wild leeks, have reached cult status in the world of foraging and locavore. I remember picking them in Vermont with my mom when I was small in spots that were so marshy that I worried a little about falling behind and getting swallowed up by the ground underneath you. Below is a link to a great article about where to find them, though the easiest spot is probably your farmers market or Whole Foods. You'll find many many wonderful recipes for them, but this is my new favorite.

Momofuku's Ginger Scallion Noodles (with Ramps!)

Here's a link to David's recipe, which also appears in his cookbook, which I own and love and highly recommend. My version calls for replacing about 1 cup of the scallions with 1 cup fresh, chopped ramps. I would also suggest using a microplane to chop your ginger, which I keep in my freezer. which makes it incredibly easy to grate. I topped mine with crunchy pickled cucumber, another recipe from the Momofuku Cookbook, which was perfect. I used these noodles, which are easy to find around the city. I like the way this works with everything chilled, and recommend running the noodles under really cold water for a few minutes after they cook.

And remember. Open Door. 3 am. Rainstorm. IPA. 

 

My philosophy is that everything begins with a simple idea and a sketch – and with enough practice, anyone can draw. In this three-part course, you will begin by learning how to draw everyday objects with pencil and paper, and then throughout the course you’ll learn how to render and add color to more complex shapes. By the end of the course, you’ll be drawing multi-faceted illustrations and learning how to think (and create) like an illustrator.

More info here...

Drawing Contest

In celebration of the series, creativebug is running an Instagram contest for the next 3 weeks.

Here’s how it works: Each week, share a picture of your drawing progress on Instagram. Maybe it’s a work in progress, maybe it’s a finished masterpiece, maybe it’s all your drawing tools organized perfectly in a drawer. Because that counts too. Include #creativebug and #cbugsketchbook in the description. Creativebug will announce a new winner each Tuesday on their Instagram feed and their blog post.

Week 1’s winner:
Prize: $100 Michael’s gift card

Week 2’s winner:
Prize: $100 Michael’s gift card

Week 3’s winner:
Prize: $100 Michael’s gift card

We can’t wait to see what you’re drawing! And if your kids are taking the class along with you, we’d love to see their work as well.

Sign up for this class with Creativebug today for only $4.95/Month, or try it for 14 days FREE!

If you told me that I had to get on a south-bound plane tomorrow to justabout anywhere, I’d be thrilled. The fact that I’m headed to one of my most favorite cities, Austin Texas, for the largest celebration of all things modern and handmade, just makes leaving behind the bitterly cold island of Manhattan that much easier.

I’m looking forward to seeing lots of you there. My schedule is below, please come find me and say hello!

Sat, 2/21, 1:30, Creativebug launch, Exhibit Hall B

My dear friends at Creative Bug and I are cooking up some very cool things, including a new video series on Fabric Design. Denyse Schmidt, Lizzy House, me, and the CB crew will be leading the official at 1:30 on Saturday. Details Here.

Sat, 2/21, 2-3 Book Signing, Stitch Lab Booth

Join me at the Stitch Lab Booth for a bit of meet and greeting and book signing. They’ll have copies of all of my Abrams titles , hardcover and paperback copies of Weekend Sewing, Heather Ross PRINTS, and my latest book of essays, How To Catch a Frog. I’m usually good for a few special request doodled inscriptions...

Sun, 2/22, 2-2:45 Lecture: Fabric Design, Things I’ve Learned Along The Way...

I’m looking forward to sharing some hard learned lessons about fabric design, taking questions from the audience, and dishing on an alarming level. I’ll also be unveiling my new collection for Windham, TigerLily, reading an essay from my book, and sharing a few deep secrets about getting inspired and staying inspired.

Sun, 2/22: 3-4 Book Signing

If I missed you on Saturday, come back to the Stitch Lab booth and get a signed and or doodled in book. My drawing hand should be rested by then.

Fabric Design with Heather Ross & Anna Maria Horner, 3 days / New York City

June 5-7 Friday, Saturday, Sunday, 10am-4pm

$500* (Fee includes Workshop, plus Friday night reception and dinner with Heather and Anna Maria.) 

Photoshop Crash Course, 1 Day / New York City

Thursday, June 4th

$100**

 *Workshoppers will have the option of bringing their own workstation, or renting one from us at our cost: $200. A laptop with Photoshop and Wacom Tablet are required. Reservations for rentals will be due on May 1.

In this workshop participants will learn how to create a repeating design based on their own illustrations or open source artwork. Heather and Anna Maria will demonstrate their their design processes, from inspiration and planning a successful design, through drawing with a stylus and tablet and testing repeats using a large format printer. Anna Maria will also be sharing her theories and rules regarding color for fabric design, and both designers will discuss their approach to todays retail fabric market. Students will create at least one single finished design, in repeat, and a large test print on paper.

We are also thrilled to announce very special guest Laura Jaquinto, Creative Art and Merchandising Director at Windham Fabrics, will be with us on our final day to review student work and explain what she looks for when signing new fabric designers, as well as her view of the retail fabric landscape, and what a successful collection includes.

**A very basic knowledge of Photoshop will be needed to take full advantage of this class. You will need to be familiar with the selection and drawing tools (pencil, brush, and eraser) as well as the copy and paste commands.  If you have never used Photoshop before or would like some practice with it prior to our workshop, we recommend that you join us for our Photoshop Crash Course, which is held the day before the regular workshop begins

*Fee does not include hotel accommodations, which must be booked by participants. The workshop takes place in Heather’s Studio at 139 Fulton Street, in Lower Manhattan. This location is directly across the street from New York City’s newest transportation hub, The Fulton Transit Center, and is easily accessed by almost every NYC subway line, and from New Jersey and Brooklyn via The East River Ferry, and PATH.

Sign up here