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Auguste J
https://www.goodreads.com/villainyat97percent
“That is the thing about the water, it is not yours to control. You are at the mercy of nature. That’s what makes surfing feel like more than sport: It requires destiny to be on your side, the ocean must favor you.”
― Malibu Rising
― Malibu Rising
“My story is one of many thousands, and the world will not suffer if it ends too soon.”
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