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“As the nineteenth century progressed, Austria-Hungary took refuge in reaction at home and adventurism abroad in an effort to contain the centrifugal forces which eventually blew it, and much of Europe, apart. Austria, and Vienna in particular, was the real home of Central-European anti-semitism. Jews wew bottom of the pile. No matter how low you sank, the Jews were still below you, along with the gypsies. At the tail-end of the nineteenth century, the Viennese politician Karl Lueger founded his power base on an anti-semitic platform. Stories of ritual murder by Jewish cabals featured regularly in the Viennese gutter press. It is no accident that Schickelgruber, the faied artist who became Hitler, should have neen the son of a petty official and have spent his ambitions at the butt end of Viennese snobbery.”
Walter Perrie, Roads That Move: A Journey through Eastern Europe
“My father had one special hero: William III, King of Great Britain and Ireland and Prince of Orange. To my father the Dutchman, by smashing the forces of James II at the Boyne and, more decisively, at Aughrim on 12 July 1691, saved the country from an Irish-Catholic tyranny of popish servitude, idolatry and nameless superstition. Those battles were not events of long ago which no longer mattered. Rather, they were of decisive moment in how we lived from day to day and deserved the commemoration of daily objects, so that William's figure, seated on his prancing white charger, sword-arm raised in a gesture of advance, decorated tea-towels and plates.”
Walter Perrie, Roads That Move: A Journey through Eastern Europe
“We say 'everyone is entitled to his beliefs', recognising the nastiness of a world which will not tolerate alternative beliefs, but over-looking the fact that some beliefs are nonsense and deserve to be called prejudice, bigotry or superstition rather than merely belief. But as Pascal knew, our prejudices do not respond to reason alone. It is as though all the proofs and evidence of philosophy had mistaken their rationality for how people actually think.”
Walter Perrie, Roads That Move: A Journey through Eastern Europe
“Springtime flatters this part of the Somme countryside, undramatic with its flat fields and scattered villages. The largest object for miles, dominating the shallow depression of the Ancre, is the Thriepval Memorial. You approach the park down a long avenue, past lawns carefully tended and set in a girdle of trees. The massive triple arch of dark-red brick, each leg of the arch four piers deep, each pier with its four high panels of dun-coloured marble on which the names of the dead are engraves, is, for all its height, a squat, graceless thing.

There is not another soul in sight, and no sound. From the plinth you look down long rows of white crosses and plain headstones on the far side of the memorial; some say inconnu, others 'A Sodier of the Great War'. Beyond them, beyond this enclosure, the lush countryside meanders to its low horizon.

The dead are listed by regiment, then by rank and then alphabetically - nothing disordered here. This dismal monumentalism, a confirmation rather than a denial of the mindset which led to such slaughter in the first place, though the architect intended no irony. The monument was raised by the power of the state as a piece of political theatre extravagant enough to be seen from miles and years away, as it was by my father when he passed on the Bapaume Road in the summer of 1944.”
Walter Perrie, Roads That Move: A Journey through Eastern Europe

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